A Venue Change

Just wanted to let you know that I have migrated my blog to a new site entitled "Vantage Points" and it can be found at www.vantagepoints.me.  Please visit and join the conversation!

Thoughts from Jordan - A Few Parting Thoughts

I cannot begin to adequately describe in any way that does it justice, the things, people, and experiences I have been privileged to witness this week. This is a fascinating country.  Generally, westerners have misconceptions about the Middle East. Americans especially tend to think of places in this part of the world, as menacing places, but nothing is further from the truth when it comes to this country.

Jordan's people are friendly and open.  Many speak or understand English. The nation's capital, Amman, is a city filled with neighborhoods, shopping districts, restaurants and people. It only takes five hours to drive from Jordan's northern borders to its southern-most city.

Jordan has its share of incredibly difficult issues to overcome.  It is the 4th poorest water resource country in the world.  It has a population of 6 million, and Palestinian refugees add 2 million to that number, while the crisis in Syria has resulted in 500,000 new refugees and the prediction that as many as 500,000 more will follow by the end of the year. Unemployment is high. There are 13 Palestinian refugee camps here, some since 1949.  There are three Syrian refugee camps in Jordan that house some of the 500,000 plus Syrian refugees.

Jordan, unlike its neighbors, has no natural resources to speak of.  They import most of their energy needs and food.  Their geographic boundaries place them in one of the toughest neighborhoods on earth.  They are bordered on the east by Israel, Syria on the north, Egypt in the south, and Iraq and Saudi Arabia to the west.

It has weathered the Arab Spring.  It is resolved to change in light of those protests all around the region.  They have embraced some democratic reforms and while their democracy doesn't look like ours, they are embarking upon their own grand experiment.

It's not immune from terrorism.  The 2005 Amman bombings enraged its citizenry who call that day, Jordan's 9-11.  The bombings were a series of coordinated bomb attacks on three hotels in Amman, Jordan, on 9 November 2005. The attacks killed 60 people and injured 115 others. The explosions—at the Grand Hyatt Hotel, the Radisson SAS Hotel, and the Days Inn—started at around 20:50 at the Grand Hyatt.  The three hotels are often frequented by foreign diplomats.

Despite their challenges, their difficult economy and the regional challenges they face, the Jordanians are some of the most gracious people in the world.  They have given more than any one  country should be expected to with respect to the helping with the Syrian crisis.  The demands on infrastructure, a weak job market, and utilities, especially water,  by the addition of 1,000,000 people in a short period of time - or nearly 20% of your country's population - are staggering.

The people of Jordan seem patient for now.  But continued stresses on everyday Jordanians by the country's generosity cannot and should not be taken for granted.  This situation is just not sustainable. The regional impacts of unrest in this stable and reliable ally cannot be understated.

The people here always smile.  They go out of their way to say hello.  Jordan's strength is her people and their resolve. The next few years will be critical for this small nation.  Jordan is the keystone in any process that impacts Syria, peace in the Middle East, or relationships with the Arab world. She is an ally in a region where the United States has few friends.  We must continue to support and encourage our friends in Jordan for they might be the last best chance the world has in this part of the world.

Thoughts from Jordan - Jordan's Treasured Sites

Over the last few days, we have been privileged to visit some of the most amazing places on the face of the earth....I thought I'd share a few observations and tales....

Mount Nebo

Mount Nebo is one of the most revered holy sites of Jordan and the place where Moses was buried. A small Byzantine church was built there by early Christians, which has been expanded into a vast complex. During his visit to Jordan in 2000, the Late Pope John Paul II held a sermon here that was attended by some 20,000 faithful. On the highest point of the mountain, Syagha, the remains of a church and monastery were discovered in 1933.

The church was first constructed in the second half of the 4th century to commemorate the place of Moses' death.  We were running late this day and decided to still go to the site.  Unfortunately, the church is under renovation, so we could not enter.  But we did head to the place where Moses was allowed to view the holy land and where God showed Moses the promised land and explained that he would not join those he had led from Egypt.  The weather did not fully cooperate either,  but I am told that when you stand where I was standing - and it's a clear day - you can see, as Moses did, the Jordan River Valley, the Dead Sea, Jericho and Jerusalem.

We were able to see some things in the distance; however, dust and wind prevented it from being a clear vista.  Nevertheless, I was tremendously moved by standing in this place.  Jordan's rich and treasured historic monuments are unlike any I have visited before.  This is a place where as you walk, climb, hike, or just visit the valleys, hills and plains of this country, the names of famous historical and Biblical persons, who have been woven into our collective human history by virtue of walking in these same places and crossing its rivers during their lives, are virtually everywhere.

As I walked back to the bus, I quietly reflected upon what this pilgrimage meant to me. And all I could think of was that when God chose Moses to lead the people of Israel out of slavery in Egypt, Moses was unwilling at first. And after I got beyond the "Oh my God, I'm standing where Moses stood," phase, I started to think about how many of us are reluctant to get up and do something even when God clearly has something else in store.  Visiting Mount Nebo was a reminder that when we feel that tug from inside, we need to listen because we don't always know what God is trying to tell us to do.

The Ancient City of Jerash

For anyone fascinated with history, a visit to Jordan is a must.  But for Rome itself, I'm not sure I have ever seen so many wonderful examples of ancient ruins than in Jordan.  On Thursday, we visited the ancient city of Jerash.  Jerash is the site of the ruins of the Greco-Roman city of Gerasa, also referred to as Antioch on the Golden River. Visiting Jerash is without a doubt one of the best preserved Roman cities I have ever seen, and sadly, I had never heard of it before this trip.

Recent excavations show that Jerash was already inhabited during the Bronze Age (3200 BC - 1200 BC). After the Roman conquest in 63 BC, Jerash and the land surrounding it were annexed by the Roman province of Syria, and later joined the Decapolis cities. In AD 90, Jerash was absorbed into the Roman province of Arabia, which included the city of Philadelphia (modern day Amman). The Romans ensured security and peace in this area, which enabled its people to devote their efforts and time to economic development and encouraged civic building activity.

The City of Madaba

After visiting Jerash and Mount Nebo, our final stop of day was a trip into Madaba.  The city of Madaba is known for its mosaics and religious sites like St. George's Church.  on the original floor of St. George's church are the remnants of church's mosaic map of the Holy Land.

The Map of Madaba mosaic was discovered in 1896 and the findings were published a year later.  But the amazing thing about the Madaba Mosaic Map is that it is an index map of the region, dating from the 6th century!  With two million pieces of colored stone, the map depicts hills and valleys, villages and towns in Palestine and the Nile Delta. The mosaic contains the earliest extant representation of Byzantine Jerusalem, labeled the "Holy City." The map provides important details as to its 6th-century landmarks and is one key in developing scholarly knowledge about the physical layout of Jerusalem after its destruction and rebuilding in 70 AD.

The actual map depicts an area from Lebanon in the north to the Nile Delta in the south, and from the Mediterranean Sea in the west to the Eastern Desert. The map may partially have served to facilitate pilgrims' orientation in the Holy Land. All in all, the map depicts about 150 labelled towns and villages.

For me, perhaps the most exciting aspect of the map has been its use to locate and verify biblical sites throughout the holy land.  For instance, in 1967, excavations in the Jewish Quarter of Jerusalem revealed the Nea Church and the Cardo Maximus in the very locations suggested by the Madaba Map.  In February 2010, excavations further substantiated its accuracy with the discovery of a road depicted in the map that runs through the center of Jerusalem. According to the map, the main entrance to the city was through a large gate opening into a wide central street. Until now, archaeologists were not able to excavate this site due to heavy pedestrian traffic. In the wake of infrastructure work near the Jaffa Gate, large paving stones were discovered at a depth of 4 meters below ground that prove such a road existed.

The mosaic also identifies significant structures in the Old City of Jerusalem: the Damascus Gate, the Lions' Gate, the Golden Gate, the Zion Gate, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the New Church of the Theotokos, the Tower of David and the Cardo Maximus.

What' remains today of the mosaic map is amazing to see and I did take some photos of it that I hope to put on Facebook soon.  As I stood there looking at it, it was hard to believe that such a detailed map existed during the time is was created.  And again, to know that it substantiates some of the sites referenced in the bible is fascinating.

As I left the City, I ran into one small shop and purchased a memento to bring home.  The shop keeper and I exchanged a few words and he asked if I have enjoyed my visit.  I told him I had and that he has a beautiful country.  He replied that it was my country too.  That sentiment was repeated over and over.  The kindness and hospitality of the Jordanians was clearly visible wherever we traveled.  Our foreign assistance dollars this place have made a difference for the better of our two countries and that was exciting to see and hear.

Friday

We left the hotel earlier today then we had all week.  With our official meetings over, and my head filled with information and details, and my suitcase overflowing (and I'm sure heavier then the weight limit) with handouts, presentation materials, and books, we packed our bags and set out for the our four hour ride to Petra.

We were just happy to get out of the bus.  It was a pleasant enough ride and the accommodations were fine, the ride itself was slightly uncomfortable, bouncy, etc.  But the trip was well worth the effort!  What an amazing journey.  From he first time I watched the Indiana Jones movie that featured Petra, I always wanted to visit this place.  And it did not disappoint!

Petra

At more than 2,000 years old, this city appears to be half as old as time itself and as you wonder through the old city streets, you cannot help but wonder what life here must have been like.  This city is indeed one of the greatest archaeological treasures of the world.

Tucked quietly in the mountains of southern Jordan, between the Dead Sea and the Gulf of Aqaba, Petra was once the strategic location along early trade routes between the Middle East and northern Africa. Its people were some of the original architects, artisans and tradesmen prospering until trade routes changed and the Romans eventually took over. Now a United Nations World Heritage Site, the eroded areas are protected for future generations to enjoy.

The ancient main entrance to Petra was breathtaking.  It was a 1,200 meter long (or 4,000 feet) deep and sometimes narrow gorge of stunning rock formations and artwork.  Just when you think you're done, there is another twist or turn, and then you come face to face with the iconic image of Petra, the Treasury, or Al-Khazneh.

The main influence in the construction of theTreasury was Hellenistic and stands an impressive 141 feet tall, and 100 feet wide.  We walked further through the city to see the Street of Facades and the city theatre.  Scattered high above the streets and well into the mountain sides, you could see caves that were bored into the rock formation and acted as homes to local residents of the time.  We also walked the colonnaded street, which was added after the city was incorporated into the Roman Empire.  This street led through the city center and is flanked by temples, public buildings, and shops.  It was absolutely breath taking.

Petra is beautiful.  It stands as a testimony to past civilizations, their desire for order, their commitment to education, and their passion for architectural and civil engineering dominance.  Despite the fact that we walked through Petra for nearly two hours, archeologists estimate that only 20% of the original city has been unearthed and that Petra was once home to a thriving ancient city of 30,000 people.

Wadi Rum

Although our day in Petra was perfect, the weather turned as we drove south to Wadi Rum, a huge desert reserve area in southern Jordan protected by the Jordanian government.

Upon our arrival at the campsite, we were shown into a large square tented courtyard and offered teas, dates, and cookies. The area was laid out in a Bedouin-style, with rugs and cushions everywhere.  We waited there until our rides were ready to tour Wadi Rum and head to our campsite for the evening.  Wadi Rum is another amazing place seemingly frozen in time.

We boarded two 4x4 pickups and bumped past titanic stone sculptures of Wadi Rum. The pickups stopped a few times to awe at the beauty of it all.  At one point, I found my own piece of the desert to reflect at what God had created in this place. We arrived at our camp, fully set up in Bedouin style, and enjoyed tea, explored the area and got settled.  As we waited for dinner, we took the opportunity to introduce a western classic to our Bedouin and Jordanian hosts - s'mores!  I'm not sure what they thought about our description of a s'more, but once they got the hang of, they seemed to enjoy the process and the end result.  There is nothing like "S'more Diplomacy" to build relations around the world!

The camp just housed our delegation, and there was dining, live music, dancing, great fellowship, and exploration.  We watched as our hosts pulled our dinner out of the ground after cooking for hours beneath the sand.  The meal included lamb, chicken, rice, and vegetables all cooked together.  Our Bedouin host also made fresh bread he flattened and cooked on a heated inverted wok kept on the fire.  Unbelievable!  The hot dishes were served with an assortment of hummus, salads, and sauces.

After things settled down, several of us decided to sleep under the stars instead of in our personal tents.  At this point in my day, I would normally check emails, voice mails and send a dozen or so text messages, but none of that was happening this night. No phones, no computers, just the age-old art of conversation under intense and unblinking stars.

Once everyone was in bed, I sat in our campsite and gazed at the rock formations surrounding our home for the evening and heard nothing. Nothing but my thoughts. For the first time in my life, I heard absolutely nothing. It was as startling as it was refreshing and peaceful. Just me, the earth and the air. I slept under the stars and awoke as soon as the sun began to rise and the formations around me were painted a different color than the night before and even more beautiful.

Wadi Rum wraps its guests in a warm tranquil embrace that makes it difficult to board a 4x4 to head out of the park in the morning.

Bethany Beyond the Jordan

On Saturday, our last full day in Jordan, we left Wadi Rum to make our way towards the Dead Sea.  Before checking into the hotel, we had one last antiquity in this amazing country peppered with antiquities and holy sites.  We set out for a place knows as Bethany beyond the Jordan.  For me, this may have been the most moving of sites visited during this trip.  I truly felt that this was in some ways a part of my Christian journey and a pilgrimage of sorts.  I didn't think that when we set out, but by the end of the trip, visiting mount Nebo, Madaba, and this site were collectively overwhelming.

I certainly acknowledge that no one today knows where Jesus was baptized, but we do know that John the Baptist hung out in this region of the Middle East.  We know that Jesus and John were together at some point during John's ministry and we know, from historical records and archeological finds that somewhere in the general region I was is indeed the place where John and Jesus connected together.  To know that I was walking on this holy ground was moving, inspiring, and a bit overwhelming.

The area I am talking about is about a 45 minute drive from Amman, and slightly north of the Dead Sea. For the three past year and a half, the Jordanian Department of Antiquities has systematically surveyed and partially' excavated a series of ancient sites that collectively make up one of the most important archaeological discoveries in modem Jordan.

The site excavated reveals the settlement of Bethany, where John the Baptist lived and baptized. The Bethany area sites formed part of the early Christian pilgrimage route between Jerusalem, the Jordan River, and Mt. Nebo. Archaeologists believed they have unearthed the cave where John the Baptist lived and the area is also associated with the biblical account of how the Prophet Elijah ascended to heaven in a whirlwind on a chariot of fire, after having parted the waters of the Jordan River and walked across it with his anointed successor the Prophet Elisha.

The Madaba map depicts two concentric circles at the site, which have variously been interpreted as symbols for the hill itself, the nearby caves, or the spring. The remains of a large church immediately adjacent to and east of the river include fine colored stone pavements and mosaics, Corinthian capitals, and column drums and bases, all from the late Byzantine period. This church may have been built in the Byzantine period to mark the exact spot where people believed that Jesus was baptized and where John lived and preached his baptism of repentance and forgiveness of sins. This is the site that visited.

After visiting this ancient site, we went down to the Jordan River's access point on the Jordan side of the river.  There we could see the Jordan River's current day flow, and across the river - which could not have been more than 15 feet wide - we witnessed baptisms taking place on the Israeli side of the Jordan.  Believers dressed in white robes were immersing themselves in the river at one entry point while beliefs from Ethiopia were being baptized slightly down river.  On the Jordan side, a group was gathering to celebrate the baptism of a newborn child in the Jordan.

As we ascended the steps back up the embankment, we visited a small Greek Orthodox Church, the Church of John the Baptist, and entered the church to look around.  The church was more of a small chapel than a church, but the mosaics, and paintings inside were beautiful, including the altar.  I lite a candle and said a few prayers for some friends and family who I know are having a tough time and again, a second wave of emotion came over me.

As we exited the church to head back to our bus, I looked up at the bell tower next to the church and saw three or four white doves perched in the tower.  That was about all I could take at this place and whether or not this is the exact location of the baptism, it was one of those moments in one's faith journey that is life-changing.  It is a visit I shall never forget and it is one that will stay with me long after my return home.

The Dead Sea

On our final night in Jordan, we stayed at a hotel on the Dead Sea.  The temperature at this point had gone from pleasant most of the week, to extremely warm at this place. My walk to the beach was long and steep.  The Dead Sea is the lowest land point on earth.  People travel from all over the world to slather themselves in nutrient-rich mud from the Dead Sea and to float in its salty and mineral filled waters. Legend says it was the Queen of Sheba who first believed in the mystical healing powers of this age old sea. Then Cleopatra traveled from Egypt to build the world’s first spa there, later sending her armies in place of her to bring back their precious minerals.

I decided to walk into the sea and check this out. There was a warning sign at the entry point that stated one should not spend more than 20 minutes in the sea at a time.  Not the signs we usually see in the US.  "Watch for Rip Tides," "lifeguard on duty," and so forth.  No, at the dead sea, just an ominous warning that too much exposure to the salt will harm you, so I guess 20 minutes or less is the right level for healing!

My assessment....the water was warm, salty, and after just a quick walk in and placing my right arm in the water (presumably to heal a nasty bout of poison ivy that has been with me for two weeks now), I felt slimy and slippery.  You can immediately feel the minerals in the water on your skin.  I couldn't wait to take a shower.  But it did feel cool.  By the way, my arm looked 50% better by the time I returned to my room - I guess the Queen of Sheba was onto something.

I stood on one of the numerous balconies to watch one of the most dramatic sunsets I have seen.  As the sun lower itself over the Dead Sea, I was happy over the thoughts of seeing my family again, but sad to see the sunset on this amazing journey through Jordan.

Thoughts from Jordan.....The Realities of Syria's Civil War

Every human has innate survival instincts.  Every parent is protective of his or her children.  Today I witnessed something I never thought I would see, the absolute look of despair and the need to survive in the eyes of women and men in the Al Zaatari Syrian Refugee Camp along the north Jordanian border near Syria.

The human toll and suffering at the hands of another makes one wonder why the world response to the crisis of Syria is not more commanding, decisive, and united.  It is hard, no the word hard is an understatement, its unimaginable, when trying to comprehend the actions of one man and how his hold on power is so overwhelming that he cannot and will not do what is best for his people.

As families in Syria fear for their lives, that protective survival instinct kicks in, and people will do almost anything to survive.  In so many cases today in northern Jordan, I saw that.  Mothers and fathers were so desperate that they left their homes in darkness with just what they could carry to move into a tent pitched in the middle of the desert.

Please don't misunderstand, the country of Jordan is doing more than any one nation should be asked to do. And just eight months ago, there was only desert where 120,000 people now live in tents and temporary mobile units.  Yes, the residents have food, some security, health care, and education.  But this is no way for families and children to live.  There is overcrowding and a sense of hopelessness in many of the eyes that I gazed into.  The international response has been good, but with 2,000 refugees fleeing Syria into Jordan every night, the camp is now the 4th largest city in Jordan and by the end of this year, another 500,000 refugees are expected to cross into Jordan.

I watched new arrivals today setting up tents in the outskirts of the existing camp boundary as the planners and managers of the camp prepare for the newest influx of residents.  It's hot and sandy in the desert, there is frustration. Life at a refugee camp is heartless, families live there with their children and are secluded, refugees are deprived of any social interaction with the surrounding community. As frustration grows, and money runs low, social norms begin to break down.  Without the proper resources, Jordan cannot provide the correct level of security and gang violence beings to invade the camp.  Burglary, vandalism, and violence against women are on the rise and trafficking is occurring.

No words can come close to properly conveying what I saw today.  But I know one thing, countless people are working hard to ensure that as many people as possible remain safe and secure.  Despite this Herculean effort on behalf of Jordan and its international partners, there appears to be no easy solution to the Syrian crisis.  A reasonable and sustainable political solution must be found to address the Syrian crisis immediately.

Then and only then will these people be able to return home to their villages and towns  and the life they knew before coming here.  As I left the camp today, I looked out the window of the bus and thanked God for all that the world was providing to these people, prayed for resolution in Syria, and prayed that the inevitable clash of survival instincts and reality did not result in more pain and suffering for these people struggling to survive in a harsh place in a strange land.

Thoughts from Jordan - Reforming Government and Sandstorms!

Today started with visiting the Jordanian Speaker of the House and then the President of the Senate.  We had some lively discussions, generally in the Senate and mostly about the Middle East peace process.

As a result of the Arab Spring, Jordan passed a new electoral law that allowed voters to cast two ballots; one for a candidate in their constituency and one for party lists elected by proportional representation at the national level.  The Parliament in Jordan is made up of two bodies, the House and the Senate.  There are now 150 seats in the House of Representatives and the Senate has members appointed by the King and does not exceed half the number of the total Members of Parliament.  We ended our visit there by watching one if the two weekly sessions of parliament.  Absolutely fascinating compared to watching a House Session!

We also visited with the newly created Independent Election Commission, which was part of the reforms enacted and was established to oversee the election process.  It is indeed a fascinating time in Jordan.  As a matter of fact, around 70% of eligible voters registered to vote.  We met with the new director of the commission and he has a lot of work to do but learned a lot from the last election cycle.

After a great morning learning about the legislative process, we went out to visit the Jordanian International Police Training Center (JIPTC).  The center is ground zero for the transformation of US-allied security forces not only for the Kingdom of Jordan, but also for Iraq, Lebanon and the Palestinian Territories.  After a briefing and watching some Palestinian forces running through a training exercise, we went out to a shooting range for a demonstration.

Mother Nature had another plan and I experienced my first massive sand storm!  Check out my photo on Facebook.  It was insane, but now I can check that off my bucket list!

That's it for now from Amman!

Thoughts from Jordan - a whirlwind of briefings!

We are just about ready to wrap up our second full day on the ground in Jordan, getting ready to head to the American Embassy in Amman for a reception in our honor that will end an amazingly informative and exciting two days of meetings and briefings.

I will not bore you with all the details, but I thought I'd try my best to hit the highlights.

Our day started early and some of us were hurting from the jet lag heading over to Jordan.  We began with a tour of the King Abdullah Special Operations Training Center- KASOTC for short.  This base on the outskirts of Amman was designed to train forces using state if the art reality based training for special operations forces, counter-terrorism units, law enforcement and others.  During the tour of the 25 square kilometer site we entered what is known as the urban area that contains a wide range if urban and village facilities for forces to train in a variety of typical urban environments.  When we arrived at this section of the facility, the gates were down and we heard explosions in the region - simulations that we assumed were underway.

Our guide raised the gate and said we were heading in anyway because the explosions and exercise should cease before we reached the area.  It was one of the more frightening and realistic sounds I have ever heard.  You could only imagine how complicated working in this environment would be with loud explosions and the sounds of gunfire ricocheting through the buildings and down the streets.  As we passed a simulated gas station, it exploded.  I then realized it was our hosts just messing with us and setting off the simulation as we drove through.  Nevertheless, I was glad when we exited this part of the center!

A highlight of this day was a briefing with His Royal Highness (HRH) Prince Faisal Bin Al Hussein, Special Assistant to the Joint Chief of  Staff of the Jordanian Armed Forces. Our meeting was packed full of details and insights on he challenges that Jordan faces in the region.

Apparently, the Jordanians do not eat on the same schedule that we do and previous groups who have participated on this trip explained that we generally cannot miss breakfast go at 100% all day and not eat until 3:00 pm.  So our embassy host was planning on having sandwiches on the bus in between meetings until we could grab lunch.  We invaded a small shop and had some local snacks as our "lite, before lunch meal," but it turned out to be a full meal and no one thought we could actually handle a real lunch. Thanks to some persistence on our part, and a willingness on behalf of our hosts, we "adjusted" the schedule during the time set aside for the real lunch to visit the King Hussein Bin Talal Mosque, the national mosque here.  The mosque was built on the highest hill in the King Hussein gardens.  The mosque can host 6,000 worshipers and the caretaker of the mosque allowed us to visit the mosque.  It was beautifully constructed and remained true to Islamic architecture.

We also had briefings with the Jordanian General Intelligence Department and a very lively discussion with Civil Society Leaders on issues related to Development, Youth,  Women, &  Political development arranged by the Royal Hashemite Fund for Royal Development.  The perspectives and outlooks on the challenges facing Jordan were really brought home during this meeting.

Before heading back to the hotel for a political briefing with our Ambassador, we participated in a USAID briefing and sunset tour of the Citadel.  Tourism in Jordan is a strategic industry that has taken a slight hit as a result of the Arab Spring.  But its 14% of GDP here and generates $3.4 billion annually.  Tourism is also the largest generator of employment in the country and projects like this are critical for Jordan.

The Amman Citadel national historic site is one of Amman's oldest sites perched on top of one of the city's hills.  Excavations reveal that the summit has been used as a settlement and fortress dating back 7,000 years and represents a passage in time with an astounding open-air museum to explore as a part of our collective heritage.  Historic structures, tombs, arches, and walls dot the landscape.  Towering above downtown Amman, the site includes remains from the Middle Bronze Age (2nd mill. BC) and the Iron Age (8th century BC), as well as from Hellenistic (2nd century BC) and late Roman to Arab Islamic Ages.

The Citadel is located at the top of a hill and the views of Amman from there were amazing, particularly at sunset!  We looked down the valley and viewed another ruin, a Roman Amphitheater built during the reign of Antonius Pius (138-161). The structure seats - and is still used today - about 6,000 people.  It's built into the hillside visible from the Citadel.  

Our second morning began with a severe case of the nerves for me.  The most important meeting of the trip was about to happen and I was our leader for it - meaning I was to introduce the group, sound intelligent and ask the first question.  Everyone else on the trip had done an amazing job when it was their turn to lead, but my nerves were due to the fact that this meeting was with His Majesty, King Abdullah II ibn Al-Hussein, the King of the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan.

King Abdullah ascended to the throne in 1999 upon the death of his father King Hussein. Luckily for me, I did not create an international incident and the meeting was fantastic.  His Majesty was generous with his time and answered all our questions.

Before meeting the King, we were privileged to meet His Excellency, Dr. Ibrahim Saif,  Minister of Planning and International Cooperation and Minister of Tourism and Antiquities.  The ministry is tasked with coordinating all the foreign assistance that Jordan receives. Jordan's political and economic challenges makes this ministry one of the most important ones we visited.  Jordan receives aid from many Arab nations and the United States.  The Minister's insights were extremely helpful.

We also visited with the Prime Minister - the first one elected in Jordan by the parliament instead of being appointed by the King - part of the post-Arab Spring reforms put in place by King Abdullah.  Then it was on to a fascinating development organization designed to assist young entrepreneurs fulfill their dreams of starting a business.  Unemployment is high in the Kingdom, and the influx of refugees from Syria have strained the job market and the economy here.  Having an organization dedicated to assisting start-ups was refreshing.

The morning began with perhaps the most fascinating and eye opening meeting of the day - a visit to the Department of Palestinian Affairs.  This department oversees the services provided to refugees and displaced persons in Jordan.  What was shocking to me was the level of services and the number of people we are talking about.

To understand this better, you have to take a slight leap with me - think back to Hurricane Katrina and remember those who filled that stadium when they escaped the storm, now multiple that by 500 times and keep everyone there for years or decades and you have a better sense of the refugee issue in Jordan.

In addition to the 500,000 Syrian Refugees in the country, Jordan is home to 2 million Palestinian refugees.  But to provide services to these refugees, there are 172 schools, 24 health centers, 300,000 metric tons of garbage collected annually, Micro finance programs, and Teacher training facilities.  Only 18% of the 2 million live in camps, so one can only imagine the burden on services that all of these temporary residents create in a country.

Our next day is filled with visits to our counterparts in the legislative branch.  Reform will be the topic of the day....

Thoughts from Jordan - Getting Here

Jordan Journey

Saturday - Sunday

Planes, trains, and automobiles.  There's nothing like using every known mode of transportation to man in one day!  Despite that, every step of the journey to get to Amman has been smooth.  It's now 7:50 am eastern standard time and 2:51 pm in Amman.   We still have nearly two hours before we land.  We are currently fly 12,000 feet above Greece.   Our group is comprised of eight staffers and we have already had a wonderful time getting to know one another.  These trips are eye opening for many reasons, you learn about the country, the problems, challenges, and opportunities they face, and you are privileged to glean a small glimpse into the history and culture if different people's.

But something else happens that does not happen on the ground back at the Capitol - you are together with your colleagues nearly every waking minute of every day for the entire week.  During that time, you have an opportunity to bridge gaps, discuss views and ideas, and find out in the process that we're really not all that different. That we all share common goals and objectives and that we all have similar stresses associated with our jobs.  More importantly, we realize that we have different opinions about things and while we might not be able to bridge some of those divides, we respect one another's views.

Our flight landed on time and except for a slight mishap with only one bag, our group made it out of the airport and to the hotel.  Finally, a bit of time to clean up and get ready for our first briefing in Jordan.  We had about 30 minutes to unpack, clean up and meet the bus.  Everyone we have met seem very friendly, and based on the ride from the airport to the hotel, the is a middle eastern country more progressive than others I have visited.

After a quick change, we set out to the Wild Jordan Cafe, a unique project partially funded with some USAID grants that attempts to create a food outlet that offers a unique product in conjunction with communal and charity work. The facility is a partnership with the Royal society for the Conservation of Nature RSCN aimed at being a work engine aiming to generate income for the rural communities of the RSCN’s 6 reserves in Jordan; Dana, Dibeen, Shaumari, Al Azraq, Ajloun and Wadi Mujib.


From the balcony of the Wild Jordan cafe, we could see the original busy streets of the original market area of old Amman and the Citadel across the way.  The Citadel sits on the highest hill in Amman, Jebel al-Qala’a (about 850m above sea level), and is the site of ancient Rabbath-Ammon. Artifacts dating from the Bronze Age show that the hill was a fortress and/or agora (open space for commerce and politics) for thousands of years.


We ended the evening at a local restaurant on Rainbow Street in downtown Amman sampling some of the best middle eastern dishes I have ever eaten.  The starters were amazing, the pita-like flat bread was warm and freshly made, and the entrees were rich in flavor and history.  Our embassy chaperone explained that this was true traditional Jordanian cuisine.

It was a good start to what appears to be an informative and well rounded exchange on all fronts.  Stay tuned.....

They deserve a vote, and we deserve leadership

President Obama’s State of the Union address will undoubtedly go down in history as the “they deserve a vote” speech.  And the president was on point when it came to the issue of gun violence and used his very best campaign-mode style to rile up those in the audience.  No matter where you may stand in the issue, I thought the president was, well, “presidential” when it came to this issue.

He had a teacher who survived three gunshot wounds and protected her students, a congresswoman who lived through an assassination attempt, and the grieving parents of slain teenagers, including one who only three weeks earlier performed in the Presidential Inaugural Parade.  He laid out his vision and then simply asked Congress to hold the vote.  I think that is exactly what Congress must do on this issue and allow Republicans and Democrats to discuss this issue in the open and vote up or down on each issue.  That is the way the system should work.

While I give the president high marks on the way he orchestrated and took control of the gun violence debate, I was equally disappointed by his lack of suggestions, ideas, proposals or leadership on the economic crisis currently facing the nation.

Unfortunately, Democrats and Republicans are nowhere near a plan to avert $1.2 trillion in spending cuts about two weeks before they are set to begin.  Instead of taking the opportunity to lead (like on the gun issue or the immigration issue), the president’s speech had no connection to the real economic problems we face.  He seemed to brush aside the growing national and international concerns over the United States’ growing and crippling debt. During his remarks, the president stated that “most Americans – Democrats, Republicans, and Independents – understand that we can’t just cut our way to prosperity. They know that broad-based economic growth requires a balanced approach to deficit reduction, with spending cuts and revenue, and with everybody doing their fair share. And that’s the approach I offer tonight.” 

Yet, despite these comments, he failed to offer any “balanced approach to deficit reduction, with spending cuts and revenue…”  Over the last two years, Congress has cut spending and on January 1, 2013, Congress voted to tax the wealthy.  The president only called for increased taxation and increased federal spending.  

Yes, we need a balanced approach to our current deficit issues.  But that means we need to get serious about spending reductions. The president noted that “we can’t just cut our way to prosperity;” and I would add nor should we expect to tax our way to prosperity.

With a potential government shut down and sequestration looming, the president proposed initiatives that appear to be new expansions of government and new spending, including 1) a climate change initiative, something which a Democratic House and Democratic Senate refused to pass in the first term; 2) a new energy fund; 3) universal pre-school; 4) more college loans; 5) redesigned high schools; and 6) manufacturing hubs. So how does one pay for these initiatives, especially when the president stated they would not add a penny to the deficit?  Devoid of spending reductions, the only rational conclusion one could draw is that the president needs more revenues to pay for the programs he would like to implement. 

The president stated that the defining duty of the new Congress and new administration is to "reignite the true engine of America's economic growth -- a rising, thriving middle class." He continued "that must be the North Star that guides our efforts."  Job creation is critical and all policy makers should have their sites set on such a vision. 

I submit that United States of America cannot follow a North Star or have a rising or thriving middle class when the economic foundation of our country remains in shambles.  How can small businesses plan or grow when there is uncertainty in the tax code?  How can Americans feel economic security when the government is facing sequestrations, furloughs, potential shut downs, mountains of debt, additional tax increases and a demoralized working class?

The president’s answer was a proposal to raise the minimum wage - an idea his onetime economic adviser Larry Summers rightly labeled as a job killer.  I missed any tangible suggestions on how to create jobs in the US.  So I’d like to offer just one for consideration – why not increase energy exploration and production in the US?

An abundance of untapped energy lies beneath America’s ground and off our coasts. Studies have indicated that allowing access to domestic resources and imports of Canadian oil would generate more than 1 million jobs by 2018 and more than 1.4 million jobs by 2030.  So instead of focusing on climate change initiatives, why not push Congress to require the government to provide a timely permitting process, as well as environmental and judicial review?  Why not stop the Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA) regulatory over reaching by placing a freeze on new environmental regulations?  Why not talk about an energy-related project that will actually create jobs – the approval of the Keystone pipeline?

Finally, the president stated that “every day, we should ask ourselves three questions as a nation: How do we attract more jobs to our shores? How do we equip our people with the skills needed to do those jobs? And how do we make sure that hard work leads to a decent living?” 

These are the right questions to ask, but I see them as sequential and before we can properly equip our people or make sure that hard work leads to a decent living, we need to pass a balanced budget, provide certainty in our tax code through real tax reform, develop and implement a real debt reduction plan, and create an environment in America that offers small businesses, investors and the private sector a reason to bring more jobs to our shores.